A Ram Wools Summer Sock Design Contest

Join us for a knitalong in-store, Thursday nights from 4pm to 8pm, or on our Ravelry Group!

July feature - Crocus Socks by Barabara Giguere

The Crocus Sock is a short, Springy sock, with a large percentage of cotton in it, but also some stretch nylon to keep its shape. It is easier to knit than it looks, using twisted stiches to form the mock cabled patterns running up the foot. It is knit from the toe up. This pattern is written for magic loop or two circs. They can also be done on double-pointed needles.

Needle size: US 1 (2.5mm) or size needed to get gauge.
Yarn: Lana Grossa Meilenweit Cotton Stretch (one skein will make 3 socks)

Gauge: 8 sts per 1 inch and 12 rows per 1 inch
Size: Medium woman (to increase or decrease size you can add or omit columns of purl stitches in the first chart, and cast on accordingly.) Sock measures 7”,  unstretched, around foot. A larger or smaller needle can also be used for small adjustments in size, but it is not recommended to change needle size more than one size either way.

Abbreviations:
K – knit
P – purl
m1b - make 1 by lifting the bar between two stitches, from the front, with the tip of the left needle, and
knitting through the back (will make a twisted stitch)
m1f – make 1 by lifting the bar between the two stitches, from the back, with the tip of the left needle, and
knitting through the front (will make a twisted stitch)
Kfb – knit through the front, then the back of the same stitch (an increase of one stitch)
Bo – bind off
St(s) – stitch(es)

Cast on 10 sts on each needle, using Judy’s Magic Cast On (see video link at the end, if this is an unfamiliar technique) (20 sts).
Row 1: *K1, kfb, k5, kfb, k 2, repeat from *. (The k1 at the beginning and k2 at the end is not an error, this places that little bar from the kfb in the 3rd stitch
position on each side to make it match)
Row 2: K around
Row 3: Increase round: * k1, kfb, k to three stitches from the end of the needle, kfb, k2, repeat from *
Row 4: K around
Continue alternating increase round and knit round until you have 64 stitches on the needles. Knit one round after your last increase round.
Begin working first charted pattern on first 32 stitches for top of sock. Knit the remaining 32 stitches for the sole of the foot.
Repeat rows in blue box as many times as needed until you are ready to begin gusset (about 4” less than total desired foot length).

= purl

= knit two sts together, and before removing them from the left needle, knit the first st and remove both sts from the left needle.

Blank squares are knit.

How to measure for foot length:
You want the gusset stitches to be about 50% of the instep and sole stitches, so in this pattern it will be 32 stitches, 16 added to each side of the sole stitches. Add 1 stitch at each side of sole, followed by a knit even row...so it will be 32 rows to add the needed 32 stitches. For heel cup knit and wrap until you have 4 stitches in the center that are not wrapped. For 64 sts there are 47 rows total for gusset increases and heel cup. 47 rows divided by rows per inch (mine is 12 rows/inch) = (3.92 round to 4) 4 inches.
Take total desired sock length from toe to heel (mine is 9”) and subtract number of inches
needed for gusset and heel cup (9 – 4 = 5 inches), so knit sock 5” then begin gusset increases.
At desired foot length, work in pattern across top of foot, and then begin increasing on sole side: k1, m1b, knit to next to last stitch, m1f, K1.
Next row: k across sole.
Next row: increase.
Continue plain and increase rows until you have 64 stitches on the sole.

Heel Cup:
Work pattern across instep to sole stitches. K 16 sts on sole, PM, k31, sl 1, bring yarn to front and wrap stitch just slipped, PM, sl same stitch back to left needle. Turn work. (Videos of the wrap and turn technique are also available and linked below).
P to 1 st from marker, sl 1, bring yarn to back and wrap stitch, sl same stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
* K across to 2 sts from wrapped stitch, sl and wrap as before. Turn work. P across to 2 sts from wrapped stitch, sl and wrap as before. Turn work* Repeat between *’s until you have only 4 center sts between last wraps, ending after completing a right side row. Turn work.

Heel Flap (Eye of Partridge Heel):
Wrong side row – purl to 1 stitch before marker, lifting wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches. Slip next stitch, remove marker and replace  stitch, P2tog, turn.
Sl1, k to one within one stitch of marker, lifting all knitting wraps with their stitches and knitting those stitches with the lifted wraps through the back of the stitch (they will twist, but it will not be obvious). Slip last stitch as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, k those 2 tog through the back loop. Turn.

Row 1: Sl1, p across to 1 stitch before gap, p2 tog to close gap. Turn.

Row 2: Sl 1, *k1, sl 1 , repeat from *across to within one stitch of gap, ssk to close gap, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, p across to 1 stitch before gap, p2 tog to close gap. Turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, * sl 1, k1 repeat from * across to within one stitch of gap, ssk to close gap, turn.
Repeat last 4 rows until you have 32 stitches on this side and you have used up all your gusset stitches.
Now continue around the entire sock, patterning as set up on the front of the leg and knitting across the back.
Continue until the leg is 1 1/2” from the top of heel flap (or 1 inch less than desired height).
K one row around.
P one row around.
Knit one row.

Switch to cuff chart and repeat each row twice, once for front and once for back.
K one row, P one row, bo knitwise.

= Slip the first two sts as if to knit, then return them to the left needle. Knit into the back of the second st, then K2tog through the back loops and remove both sts from the left needle.

A video of Judy’s Magic Cast On can be seen on this website.

Two videos of wrapping and turning stitches and then picking up wrapped stitches are here on youtube.

Any questions regarding this pattern can be addressed to Barbara Giguere, as Llamalady on Ravelry or emailed to her at
bgiguere@admin.umass.edu.

June's feature - Dogwoods by Christina Harris

These toe-up colourwork socks have a wonderful vintage feel to them. Not comfortable with toe-up socks? You can work them from the top down intead, or you can drop by the store for a quick lesson on toe-up socks. The toe of this sock uses a crochet cast-on method, but feel free to use whatever type of toe you like.

Click here to download the pattern!

May's feature - Tutu Cute by Nicole Rodgers!

May's feature - Tutu Cute by Nicole Rodgers!

Join us for a knitalong in store, Thursday nights from 4pm-8pm, or on our Ravelry group!

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 Canada License.

Here is what Nicole has to say about her pattern:

"This is the fifth sock pattern I designed for Ram Wools' footwork 1.0 design contest. I had a difficult time coming up with a fitting name for this pattern. After my best friend saw the sock, she commented on how it reminded her of ballerinas on pointe. I immediately thought of little girls in ballet class in their little tutus, and my newest design had its name!"

Supplies and tools:

• 2 balls Sandnes Garn Sisu sock yarn, 50g/160m per ball (shown in 503 Pale Pink) or any fingering weight yarn with equivalent yardage                 

• Set of 5-2.25mm dpns (or size needed to obtain gauge)                                             

• Yarn needle

Guage/Tension: 36 sts = 4" in stockinette

Abbreviations:                                                                                                                                  

Approx.: approximately

Beg: beginning

CDD: centred double decrease (see description below)

CO: cast on

Dec: decrease

K2tog: knit two together

N1/2/3/4: needle 1/2/3/4

P2tog: purl two sts together

Rep: repeat

Sl: slip

Ssk: slip 2 sts knitwise, then knit them together through the back loop.

St(s): stitch(es)

Yo: yarn over

Special Stitches: Centred Double Decrease (CDD): sl 2 sts tog as if to k2tog, k1, pass slipped sts over (decreases 2 sts).

Lace Pattern:

Row 1: (yo, CDD, yo, P2) across.

Rows 2 to 7: (K3, P2) across.

Here we go!

Ribbing and leg:

CO 65 sts and divide between 4 needles (15, 15, 15, 20). Join, taking care not to twist sts.

Round 1: (K3, p2) around.

Round 2: (K1, p1, k1, p2) around.

Rep these 2 rounds until ribbing measures approx. 1.75”.

Change to Lace Pattern; work until sock measures approx. 8” from cast on edge. Work 1 more round in Lace Pattern, slipping last 2 sts of round to beg of N1 without working.

Heel flap:

Turn to the wrong side and work the 33 sts of N4 and N3 back and forth in rows for eye of partridge heel as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p15, p2tog, p15; turn. 32 sts.

Row 2: (Sl1, k1) across; turn.

Row 3: Sl1, p31; turn.

Row 4: Sl1, k2, (sl1, k1) across to last st, k1; turn.

Row 5: As row 3.

Rep rows 2-5, seven times more, then rows 2-4 once [18 sl st rows] until heel flap measures approx. 2”, or desired length.

Heel turn:

Sl1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn; sl1, k5, ssk, k1, turn; sl1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn. Continue in this manner (working to 1 st before gap, dec over gap, work 1 st, turn) until all sts have been worked. Last row should be a knit row. [18 sts remain]

Pick up gusset:

Using same needle as heel turn sts, pick up and knit 18 sts along 1st side of heel flap (1 per sl st row)

Next 2 needles: P2, (k3, p2) across.

Next needle: Pick up and knit 18 sts along 2nd side of heel flap (1 per sl st row), then k9 sts from heel turn needle. This is now considered the beginning of the round.

Begin gusset decreases:

Note: Work the sts of N1 and N4 in stocking stitch for the sole of the sock. N2 and N3 are worked in Lace Pattern to form the instep.

Rnd 1: k across N1, p2, work in Lace Pattern to end of N3, k across N4.

Rnd 2: k to last 3 sts on N1, k2tog, k1; p2, work in Lace Pattern to end of N3; k1, ssk, k to end of round.

Rep these 2 rounds until N1 and N4 each have 16 sts. Continue in Lace Pattern on instep and stocking stitch on sole of sock, until sock measures 6.5” from picked up sts, or until desired length (should be 1.5” from end of foot when tried on).

Toe decreases and finishing:

Round 1: Knit around.

Round 2: k across to last 3 sts on N1, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to end of N2; k across to last 3 sts on N3, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k to end of rnd.

Rep last 2 rounds until 32 sts remain, ending with a round 2. [8 sts/needle]

Graft remaining stitches together using Kitchener stitch.

Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.

Wash and block using desired method.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 2.5 Canada License.